Hard cheeses: names and standards. Cheese masters The most famous cheese in the Netherlands

GILLIS, Nicolaes. Laid Table (1611, Private collection)

The peoples inhabiting the territory of modern Netherlands began to master the art of cheese making, having adopted it from the Romans in the 1st century BC. e. At the same time, they did not become blind imitators, but creatively rethought the cheese idea. In addition to the desire for this, they had all the conditions: plain meadows were the best suited for cows, which were raised in these places at least from the 17th century BC. e. - in any case, it is this time that the remains of cows found in the north of the Netherlands are dated. The main Dutch cheese makers were the peasants, who produced so much cheese that there was enough for both the family and for sale. This is how the markets for dairy products appeared: in 1266 - in Haarlem, in 1303 - Leiden, in 1326 - Oudevatere, in 1365 - Alkmaar... In 1426, the profession of "cheese maker" (caescoper) was first recorded in the Rotterdam trade books. And the cheese itself has turned into a kind of currency. It is known that Dutch sailors, for example, paid port taxes with cheese. Why not? This product practically did not deteriorate, its nutritional value was not subject to any doubt, in addition, it resembled gold in color, and coins in its round shape.

Artsen Peter (1508-1575). Market Scene

By the middle of the 17th century, only through one port in Edame almost 500 tons of cheese were sold every year. By this time, this product finally and irrevocably entered the life of the Dutch. And from about the same moment cheeses, and especially Edam and Gouda, began to wage an irreconcilable struggle for the title of "very-very". In the cities, not only special markets appeared, but Waaggebouws - structures specially built for weighing cheese heads. Of course, now they, along with windmills, are more a tribute to tradition - the cheese deal lasts a long time and looks more like a theatrical performance than a business venture. Judge for yourself: the buyer approaches the seller, scrutinizingly examines the cheese heads, slaps one of them with his palm and names his price. The seller, feigning extreme indignation, also slaps on the cheese and names his price, of course, much higher. The discouraged buyer leaves, but soon returns with a new price, which is also rejected. Each blow to the cheese head means that the partners are getting closer and closer to an agreement: either the seller lowered the price, or the buyer raised it. In the end, the two parties agree and mark the deal with cheese. To make the deal go without fraud, the cheese is weighed at the "Weighs". There, heavy cheese heads are carried on stretchers by special people - cheese-carriers, who can be recognized by their white suits, indicating that they belong to the cheese-carriers guild. All of them are divided into four vemas, the distinctive signs of which are multi-colored hats. And, apparently, in order to diversify their work, they constantly compete with each other: which vema will carry more cheese in a working day. The most famous market is located in Alkmaar, it operates according to the rules established in 1672, and is held every Friday from April to October.

Edam, named after the port town, is known abroad as the "calling card" of the Netherlands, since more than half of it is exported. This cheese has become the main component of Edam's prosperity since the Middle Ages. On April 16, 1526, the emperor granted the city the right to organize a weekly cheese market, and the prince William I of Orange made this right indefinite. So he thanked the inhabitants of Edam for the support they gave to the neighboring city of Alkmaar when it was besieged by Spanish troops. Today, the inhabitants of Alkmaar continue to hold a ceremony dedicated to Edam cheese in their market: porters bring yellow edam heads and spread them over the entire market square, which makes it golden.

Perfectly round edam heads, made for local consumption, covered with a yellow shell, for export in red. Real connoisseurs prefer both the especially aged (from four months to one and a half years) Edam cheese, which is covered with a black film.

Bakelar Joachim (1530-1574). Marktplein, met op de achtergrond de geseling, Ecce homo en de kruisdraging

Edam production accounts for 27% of the total cheese production in the Netherlands. According to this indicator, it is inferior only to gaude(Gouda), a cheese preferred by the Dutch themselves. The volume of its sales in the "orange country" (by the way, this is what the Netherlands is called, because orange is the color of the ruling Orange-Nassau dynasty) is about 50% of all cheeses. In addition to the usual gouda, the Dutch adore smoked, with an appetizing brown crust. It is especially good with beer. However, historically, Gouda, like other cheeses, began to be smoked not because of taste, but for the sake of increasing shelf life.

Both of the leaders in Dutch cheese making are made from cow's milk, belong to the group of naturally aged cheeses and have been made for at least seven centuries. Compared to them, the third popular Dutch cheese is maasdam- just a baby: he was born in the 70s of the XX century. Dutch masters created it as a competitor to Swiss Emmental cheese. This cheese, also known as leerdam, is becoming a serious competitor to edam and gouda. He conquers the audience not only with his original taste, but also with giant holes.

Bakelar Joachim (1530-1574). Mercado

Starting in the 16th century, the Netherlands began to turn into the largest trading power in Europe. The first joint stock company in the world was the Dutch East India Company, founded in 1602. Through it, merchants traded exotic goods from Japan, China and numerous Dutch colonies. The activities of the East India Company brought considerable profit to shareholders, but until 1644 it was paid in kind. This arrangement rendered an invaluable service to the Dutch cheese-making industry: after all, a significant part of these goods were spices. From the Moluccas to the Netherlands, traders brought nutmeg (for the theft of which was punishable by death), from Asia Minor - anise, from India - black pepper, from Indonesia - cloves. The Dutch were not afraid of experiments and generously poured seasonings into the baths where the cheese mass rested. Over time, the Netherlands lost their colonies, but the cheeses with spices remained. The most interesting thing is that with all the abundance of colonial spices, most of all the Dutch love cheese with caraway seeds, for which you do not need to travel far away - cumin, or cumin, has been growing in Northern Europe since ancient times. Got fame Leyden cheese, which is made from skim milk, adding caraway seeds and, less often, chopped cloves to it. Sometimes this type of cheese is called komijnekaas, that is, "caraway cheese".

Bakelar Joachim (1530-1574). Marché aux volailles

Moldy cheeses are also the pride of Dutch cheese making. Although they are known in the world much less than the French Roquefort, this does not detract from their merits. Despite the same soft texture as Roquefort, the taste of Dutch blue cheeses is completely different. They can be eaten with the crust that other moldy ones usually throw away. One of the types of moldy cheese is called so - Blau Claver(Blauw Klaver), that is, "blue crust". In addition to cheeses with blue mold, cheeses with red mold on the crust are also produced, which differ in an even more original, sharp taste, for example doruvael(Doruvael). Working with the red bacteria that produces this mold requires special sterility, which is why at the moment only one and only farm in the Netherlands has permission to make doruvael.

The Dutch have no special national technologies for making cheese. Pasteurized milk is poured into a container called a cheese bath, and a clotting agent (most often rennet, which makes the milk thicker) and lactic acid bacteria, which convert lactose (milk sugar) into lactic (hydroxypropionic) acid, are added to it. The curd obtained in this way is the main component of the cheese. For hard cheeses, the resulting mass is crushed: the smaller the pieces are, the denser the future cheese will be. Sometimes hot water is poured into the cheese tub at this stage - it rinses out the curd particles, making them lighter and more uniform.

Then the mass is heated to 35-55 degrees. Usually, it is stirred so that the future cheese does not turn out grainy. Cheeses made with the bacteria Lactobacilli or Streptococci heat up even more because these bacteria tolerate high temperatures. If cheese is made with herbs, spices or seasonings, they are added at this stage.

Then comes the turn of forming: the curd is compacted, if necessary, cut into pieces of a suitable size and laid out in special forms. The excess liquid must now be removed from the curd, either by its own gravity or under pressure. The stronger the pressure, the harder and drier the finished product will be. In Holland, as in Russia, the resulting cheese unit is called a head, although the shape of the cheese can be not only spherical, but also oval or in the form of cubes, wheels, parallelepipeds, tetrahedrons.

Salt is added to almost all cheeses, and not only for taste, but also to increase shelf life. This happens at different stages, depending on the variety: sometimes salt is combined with milk at the very beginning, in a cheese bath; some cheeses are sprinkled with ready-made salt or soaked in brine for several days. Also, coloring pigments, such as annatto, from the tropical plant Bixa orellana L., are added to the curd mass for making cheese from winter milk. This natural color, like carotene, which cows get from summer grass, gives the cheese a pronounced yellow color.

Finally the ripening time comes. Simply put, the cheese should "rest", soak in a specially designed cool room. This process can take from several days to several years.

For all types of cheeses, there is a stamp with which each head is stamped. It contains the country of origin (Netherlands), the name of the cheese, the fat content in dry matter and the serial number. So, by any cheese head, you can always determine where, when and by whom it was made. This is the main guarantee of the quality of Dutch cheese.

Brekelenkam Querinh Gerets van (c. 1622-1670). Interior with man and woman sitting by the fire

Artsen Peter (1508-1575). Rustic interior

Bloomart Hendrick (1601-1672). Lot and his daughters.

Jan Steen. The consequences of intemperance

Although the people of the Netherlands prefer simplicity and artlessness in everything, Dutch cheeses are quite suitable for organizing a "cheese ceremony". However, this will require additional equipment. First of all - a cheese board of a round or rectangular shape. Marble is considered the best, but ordinary wooden is fine. You will also need special cheese knives. There should be at least three of them: one with a long thin blade, it is intended for hard cheeses. The second is for soft cheeses, with a fork at the end and holes on the blade (they are made so that the cheese does not stick to the knife). Finally, the third - with a wide blade, for semi-soft cheeses.

The cheese ceremony includes several varieties that showcase the richness of the Dutch cheese palette. Minimum set: edam, gouda, maasdam, 1-2 blue cheeses (for example, Blau Claver), 1-2 cheeses with spices (for example, Leyden), goat cheese (for example, chevrette).

Cheese must be served with bread (white, like a French baguette) and fruits - pears, apples, grapes. Some aesthetes prefer to eat cheese with honey. Chestnut is best for this. But the main partner of cheese is, of course, wine. Although Dutch wines exist, they are not very well known in our country (and in the world), so it is better to choose classic combinations. Dry white wines (for example, "Sauvignon") or light Portuguese rosés are recommended for goat cheese; Gouda goes well with Riesling, Edam with rich red wines such as Merlot and Cabernet. Dessert, sweet wines like Sauternes are suitable for cheeses with blue mold. In general, as the Dutch proverb says: "Whoever has cheese does not need dessert."

Clara Peeters (1589/94 Antwerp? - after 1657). Still life with cheese

Clara Peters. Still life with cheese, almonds and pretzels (1612-1615)

Clara Peters. Still life with Shellfish and Eggs

Schuten Floris Gerrits van (1590-c. 1655). Breakfast

Schuten Floris Gerrits van (1590-c. 1655). Still life (Alte Pinakothek, Munich)

Schuten Floris Gerrits van (1590-c. 1655). Still Life with Ham and Cheese (1640, Frans Halsmuseum, Haarlem)

Schuten Floris Gerrits van (1590-c. 1655). Still life (Private collection)

Schuten Floris Gerrits van (1590-c. 1655). Still-Life with glass, cheese, butter and cake

Schuten Floris Gerrits van. Still life with cheese, candlestick and smoking accessories (Courtesy McNay Art Museum)

SON, Joris van (b. 1623, Antwerpen, d. 1667, Antwerpen) Still-Life with Cheese (1650, Palais des Archevêques, Tours)

Martin Boelema de Stomme (1611, Leeuwarden - 1664, Haarlem). Still life of a salt cellar, cheeses, bread and radishes London, (Private Collection Bonhams)

Pieter Claesz (Berchem 159697 - Haarlem 1660). Banquet with cheese and fruits

DIJCK, Floris Claesz van (b. 1575, Haarlem, d. 1651, Haarlem) Laid table with cheeses and fruits (1615, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam)

DIJCK, Floris Claesz van. Laid Table (1622, Private collection)
Oil on wood, 100 x 135 cm

DIJCK, Floris Claesz van. Still Life with Fruit, Nuts and Cheese (1613, Frans Halsmuseum, Haarlem)

DIJCK, Floris Claesz van. Still life (1610, Private collection)

Jan van Kessel. Still Life with Facon de Venise Wineglass, Cheese

Kessel Jan van the Elder (about 1626-1679). Still life with cheese

What is the first thing that comes to mind when people talk about Holland? Cheese and tulips. The first will be discussed today. They learned how to make cheese in Holland in the first century BC, having borrowed the know-how from the cheese-makers of Ancient Rome. Subsequently, the students far surpassed their teachers. What are the tastiest cheeses? We offer you a closer look at the TOP 10 of the most real Dutch cheeses.

1. Old Amsterdam

The king of cheeses "Old Amsterdam" (Old Amsterdam) from the family of cheeses "Gouda" has its own history and mystery related to its recipe. The keepers of the mystery are the descendants of the famous Westland cheese makers, who managed to produce a product worthy of the royal label koninklijk (Royal). Of all the Dutch cheeses "Old Amsterdam" is the most titled. It is known that only fresh milk is taken for this variety, and it is aged on shelves for at least 18 months. But the main secret is the cheese sourdough.

2. Edamer

Tastes are debated when it comes to food and drink. “Edamer”, first produced in the town of Edam, has been holding the palm among cheeses for a long time. Even before the general enthusiasm of European countries for Dutch products, he stood on a par with French and Italian counterparts. "Edamer" is made from cow's milk, a special fat content is suitable for each type. To achieve hardness, it is kept for at least two months on a wooden rack. In its final form, the "Edamer" head has appearance the wrong ball, for which it is appreciated by amateurs.

3. Gouda

The third step is occupied by the Goudse variety, which received recognition even earlier "Edamera", the name of which is also associated with the small homeland of this variety. The young product has a delicate creamy aftertaste. With age, Gouda "matures" and is aged up to nine months. Then he acquires a delicate taste, for which he is appreciated all over the world. The finished cheese goes on sale in the form of a cylinder weighing 4.5 kg. This form is considered the best for the aging process. There is another type of "Gouda" - "Dutch master".

4. Maasdam

The fourth place is given to "Maasdam", this variety appeared on the market later, but became the most widespread after the two previous ones. It was tried and appreciated by Peter I, surprised by the number and shape of holes in the finished product. How do they arise? The movement of bacteria caused by the gas during fermentation produces bubbles. They are called "eyes". Since then, the ingredients and percentage of fat content have changed in the Maazdam recipe, and in the last century it was reborn. "Young" by the standards of cheese-makers and by the aging period "Maasdam" is considered the most common in importing countries. Large round holes have become a brand of this variety.

5. Old Dutch Master

Literally the name means "Old Dutchman". This is a premium product for the most fastidious gourmets. He has been aging for over a year. Bright spices and delicate creamy aroma made him the real King of cheeses. In 2004, an anniversary cheese competition was held in the state of Wisconsin (USA). The selection was carried out in several dozen categories, and among almost one and a half thousand applicants "Old Dutchman" from the company "Frisland Foods Cheese" was recognized as the world champion. The imprint of the Golden Seal on the surface of the wrapper proves his chosenness. And the manufacturing company "Frisland Foods Cheese" has long been included in the top ten cheese-making companies in the world.

6. Bemster

The inhabitants of the Netherlands themselves give him his due. Cheese is made from unprocessed cow's milk, which is why it has a peculiar taste of meadow grasses. Almost unknown outside Holland, this species is very popular with the Dutch themselves. "Bemster" comes from the north of the country, where nature itself has created the best pastures for livestock due to the proximity of the sea and the composition of the soil containing blue clay. Thanks to this combination, milk and cheese taste sweeter and softer than those produced in other regions. The Dutch argue about how best to serve Beemster: separately from other food so that the aroma does not clog, or with a good dry red wine.

7. Fleeting

The fleeting, representing the Edamer variety, also appeared for the first time in the Netherlands. It later migrated to France, where it has been produced since the First World War. Initially, Mimolet cheese was used only as a soft cheese (mimou - from the French semi-soft), which did not require long ripening and had a slightly oily consistency with a nutty-fruity aroma. Then it turned out that when ripe from six months to two years, it becomes hard and takes on a special bitter hue in the fruity flavor. Mimolet differs from Edamer not only in its taste, but also in its rich orange color.

8. Boerenkaas

This is a "farmer's favorite", the recipe of which the manufacturer patented and revealed over time. It tastes like the popular Gouda. The structure of "Burenkaas" includes only raw milk, it adds a juicy herb flavor to the product. The head "Burenkaas" is a pressed circle. In the center of Amsterdam you can taste a delicacy and buy it as a present in the supermarkets Dirk, Henri Wilig and Albert Heijn.

9. Doruvael

Doruvael is a prominent representative of CHEESE WITH RED BREAST. Despite its clearly Flemish name, it is a Dutch cheese made in a production process. The cheese has a pronounced creamy taste. Doruvael has a uniform consistency and a pungent taste. It is the red mold that forms on the surface of the cheese during the ripening process that gives Doruvael this special taste. In Russia, the culture of consumption of cheeses with a red crust is not yet high; many confuse the noble red mold of Doruvael with secondary mold, which is very dangerous to human health.

10. Chevret

Goat cheese is no less popular in Holland; the tradition of cheese making from goat milk in the Netherlands goes back a long way. Goat Chevret cheese with snow-white flesh has the smell and taste of goat milk, but does not differ in pungency. The fat content of Chevret is 50%, which makes the cheese very satisfying. Any white and red wines are combined with goat cheese.

Dutch cheeses have long been very popular, as they have a number of useful properties and an interesting peculiar taste. At the same time, there are a fairly large number of different varieties. And at home, it turns out, it is quite possible to cook delicious cheese according to the Dutch recipe.

Story

Despite the name of the cheese, the recipe for its preparation did not appear in Holland. Its creators are considered the ancient Romans (1st century BC). It gained wide popularity during the Middle Ages, when Holland was engaged in the development of the navy.

Food on the ship is one of the main components of a successful expedition, because the physical condition of the crew and their working capacity depended on it. In addition, not all products had the ability to maintain their suitability for use for a long time.

That is why the main dish on ships was cheeses, which have a high energy value and can be stored for a long time. Due to the great attention to cheese products, its production has grown to a huge scale. New varieties appeared, which became known not only in the country itself, but also abroad.

Main characteristics

The main ingredient in Dutch cheese is pasteurized milk, which is fermented with lactic acid bacteria. The peculiarity of this type of cheese is a pale yellow color and a sour taste with a nutty tone. If the product is of the highest standard, the pattern will be in the form of eyes that evenly cover the head and may vary in size. Appearance is important: the surface is homogeneous and elastic, thin crust, no damage. The cheese melts easily and is often used for baking.

Depending on the aging period, the taste of the cheese may vary. The same variety can be sweet, salty or sour at different stages of ripening. In the composition of a natural product, except for milk, sourdough, calcium chloride and annatto dye, nothing else should be present.

In Holland, they believe that the best shape for cheese is a cylinder, in which it is most convenient to age.

The nutritional value of 100 g of the product averages 350 kcal, where fats predominate, then proteins and carbohydrates. Composition as a percentage: fats - 52.1%, proteins - 46.6%, carbohydrates - 1.3%. The permissible fat content limit is from 45 to 50%.

Choice

There are certain rules when choosing this type of product.

• Study the composition carefully to exclude the presence of unnatural ingredients.
• Take a look at the surface, it should be yellow or white, even and free from cracks that mold can form.
• In a product that has been stored incorrectly, if you look closely, you can see oily emissions. Be careful when buying.

Benefit and harm

The use of Dutch cheese has a beneficial effect on human health: blood sugar levels are normalized, the skeletal system is strengthened, and the condition of muscle tissues, hair and nails improves. This beneficial health effect is due to the beneficial substances that make up the product: phosphorus, iron, sodium, calcium, vitamins of various groups.

Due to its high energy value, the product is able to satisfy hunger and restore spent energy in a short time, so even one cheese sandwich is enough for a full meal.

However, cheese can be harmful to some people. In case of problems with the liver and gallbladder, it is not recommended to eat cheeses, as they heavily load the above-mentioned internal organs.

Obese people are also at risk, because the product contributes to the accumulation of body fat. When following a weight loss diet, Dutch cheese is still included in the diet, provided that it is consumed in small portions to satisfy hunger during the fasting weeks. With an unhealthy digestive system, the lactic acid in the product can aggravate the condition, being an irritant.

Expiration date and storage rules

Storage in the refrigerator at a temperature of + 6-8 degrees will help to extend the shelf life. It is best to wrap the product in plastic wrap. These storage conditions are easy to organize in any modern kitchen, they will not allow hard cheese to deteriorate within two months, soft cheese - 15 days. Do not freeze cheese in the freezer, otherwise it will become crumbly. Cheese should not be stored on the same shelf with products that have a strong odor.

If the product is dry, it can be grated. Grated cheese works well as an addition to pasta.

Varieties

The names of the most popular varieties that will be discussed have always received positive reviews and were highly regarded for a long time.

• Old Amsterdam. An honorable place among all is the variety with the name Old Amsterdam. For its manufacture, milk is used, the aging of which is not less than 18 months. The secret of the preparation is kept secret, its keepers are members of the Westland family, who have managed to create a cheese with a taste reminiscent of caramel and nut. Fruits with pistachios and figs, which have become an attribute of this variety, help to expand the taste sensations obtained from cheese. Also, the taste of Old Amsterdam goes well with sweet mustard, which complements other varieties well.

• Edamer. Another favorite is a variety called Edamer, which first appeared in the city of Edam. In a short time, cheese gained great popularity, despite the fact that then Dutch products were not in demand due to the close attention to cheeses of French and Italian origin. For the cheese to harden, aging is required for two months. The variety is considered semi-hard and is sold in the form of a ball-shaped head. If there are eyes, then there are a small number of them.

• Gouda. The Gouda variety was named after its homeland. To obtain the characteristic creamy flavor for which Gouda is prized, nine months aging is required. During aging, the cylindrical shape proved to be the best in practice, in which it is most convenient to cook cheese. Ripening, Gouda takes on a pungent aftertaste.

• Maasdam. Less popular than the previous varieties, but with its own zest, Maasdam is considered. Thanks to the many large holes of various shapes, the product attracted the attention of Peter I, who highly appreciated it. After tasting the cheese, you can feel the light taste of nuts. Gourmets prefer to serve smoked meats and dried fruits with this cheese.

• Bemster. Bemster, unlike other varieties, is the creation of ordinary peasants who use milk in their preparation, which does not undergo processing. That is why this variety is distinguished by its high fat content and characteristic creamy taste. Most Dutch people are convinced that if you combine Beemster with other dishes, all of its indescribable individuality is lost, because in Holland this cheese is eaten separately from other products.

• Leiden. To make Leiden cheese, skim milk is used, to which cloves and cumin are added. In appearance, it resembles Gouda. The cheese is kept for six months. This variety goes well with other cheeses, resulting in a rather unusual pleasant taste.

• Doruvael. The crust of this variety is covered with red mold, which, unlike the secondary one, is not harmful to health. The cheese has a creamy taste. It is consumed separately from all meals.

• Fleeting. The most unusual variety, which is referred to as French, but by origin it is still "Dutch". It has a spherical shape and a raised gray crust. During the ripening period, a flour mite and special worms are placed on the surface of the product. Due to their moves, a characteristic pattern for the variety and a nutty-mustard taste is obtained. A year and a half is a period of full maturation.

How to cook at home?

The principle of cooking is not very different from the preparation of the classic Russian cheese... A significant difference between these two technologies: the use of whey, under the layer of which a layer of Dutch cheese is formed. The cooking process will not take much of your time, but you will have to wait with aging.

Required Ingredients:

• milk - 10 l;
• mesophilic leaven - ¼ tsp;
• calcium chloride solution - 10% - 1.2 ml;
• liquid rennet - 2.4 ml;
• water - 3 l.

Recipe

• The milk is pasteurized and cooled to 32 °, then the sourdough is added. The rehydration process takes three minutes. The resulting mixture is mixed with a slotted spoon.
• Before adding coagulant and calcium chloride to a saucepan with milk, fill them separately with 50 ml warm water, for this use two containers. Then everything is evenly mixed.
• The resulting mass should ripen in a saucepan with the lid closed. It takes half an hour to form a curd of cheese, which is covered with whey.

• The readiness of the curd is checked using a cut made with a knife. Then the incision site is raised, if the edges are even, serum will flow, otherwise, wait another 10-15 minutes.
• The curd is cut into 1 cube cubes. cm. In order for the cubes to turn into curd and become elastic, they must be stirred for 20 minutes at a temperature of 33 °.
• Further, the acidity decreases. Pour 3 liters of whey from the pan, then pour the same amount of water and mix for 25 minutes, raising its temperature to 38 °.
• At the next stage, a drainage bag is taken, a cheese mass is placed in it, which is carefully crushed by hand to obtain a solid layer. There should be a layer of whey on top of the curd in the bag, this will prevent air from entering the cheese head.

• Having finished with the formation of the workpiece, you must wait 15 minutes. In this short period of time, the self-pressing process will take place. Another 15 minutes will be required for the reverse side. To avoid crease marks, remove the cheese from the bag when turning.
• It takes half an hour to press 2 kg of cheese. With each increase in the curd mass by one kilogram, the pressing time increases by 1 hour.
• For salting, you need to make a brine: dissolve 1 kg of salt, 4 grams of calcium chloride in 4 liters of boiled water, adding 2.5 ml of vinegar (9%).
• 0.5 kg of cheese is placed in the brine for 3 hours. With a weight of 1 kg, the cheese should stay in the brine for 6 hours and turn over after half of this time.
• After salting, the head must be dried in a ripening chamber at a temperature of 10-13 ° for 5-6 days. To prevent over-drying and maintain the characteristic Dutch cheese texture, the head is latex-coated and stored in a shrink bag.

The final and longest stage: maturation at a constant temperature of 10-13 °, which lasts 60 days. Due to the high humidity in the chamber, mold can appear on the crust; it can be removed with a brush and water. After waiting for the crust to dry, the cheese is placed back into the chamber.

During the cooking process, you can add various spices and seasonings in small quantities. If you overdo it with additives, the cheese will taste unnatural.

See below for how hard Dutch cheese is prepared.

The first cheese in the history of mankind appeared not in Europe, but somewhere in Asia. And most likely, the cheese did not have an author, but was "invented" by itself, however, it is not clear from what milk it first came out: goats or sheep? Why by itself? Because the nomads kept food, including milk, in bags made from the skins or internal organs of animals, and tied these bags (wineskins) to the saddles. If you ride for a day or two with such a wineskin, on the walls of which, moreover, the remnants of the rennet of the digestive juice of animals (it is also called "rennin", "chymosin" or "proteolytic enzyme") are often retained, the milk, of course, curdles. Having become curdled, it will surely split into a hard curd - the prototype of the cheese - and whey. Apparently, people liked the taste of the accidentally "spoiled" product. And most importantly, it turned out that the solid milk substance is stored much longer than fresh milk.

Triumph in the north of Europe

The peoples inhabiting the territory of modern Netherlands began to master the art of cheese making, having adopted it from the Romans in the 1st century BC. e. At the same time, they did not become blind imitators, but creatively rethought the cheese idea. In addition to the desire for this, they had all the conditions: plain meadows were the best suited for cows, which were raised in these places at least from the 17th century BC. e. - in any case, it is this time that the remains of cows found in the north of the Netherlands are dated. The main Dutch cheese makers were the peasants, who produced so much cheese that there was enough for both the family and for sale. This is how dairy markets appeared: in 1266 - in Haarlem, in 1303 - in Leiden, in 1326 - in Audevater, in 1365 - in Alkmaar. In 1426, the profession of "cheese maker" (caescoper) was recorded for the first time in the Rotterdam trade books. And the cheese itself has turned into a kind of currency. It is known that Dutch sailors, for example, paid port taxes with cheese. Why not? This product practically did not deteriorate, its nutritional value was not subject to any doubt, in addition, it resembled gold in color, and coins in its round shape.

By the middle of the 17th century, almost 500 tons of cheese were sold every year through one port in Edam alone. By this time, this product finally and irrevocably entered the life of the Dutch. And from about the same moment, cheeses, and especially Edam and Gouda, began to wage an irreconcilable struggle for the title of "very-very". In cities, not only special markets appeared, but Waaggebouws - structures specially built for weighing cheese heads. Of course, now they, along with windmills, are more a tribute to tradition - the cheese deal lasts a long time and looks more like a theatrical performance than a business venture. Judge for yourself: the buyer approaches the seller, scrutinizingly examines the cheese heads, slaps one of them with his palm and names his price. The seller, feigning extreme indignation, also slaps on the cheese and names his price, of course, much higher. The discouraged buyer leaves, but soon returns with a new price, which is also rejected. Each blow to the cheese head means that the partners are getting closer and closer to an agreement: either the seller lowered the price, or the buyer raised it. In the end, the two parties agree and mark the deal with cheese. In order for the deal to go through without cheating, the cheese is weighed at the "Weight". There, heavy cheese heads are carried on stretchers by special people - cheese-carriers, who can be recognized by their white suits, indicating that they belong to the cheese-carriers guild. All of them are divided into four vemas, the distinctive signs of which are multi-colored hats. And, apparently, in order to diversify their work, they constantly compete with each other: which vema will carry more cheese in a working day. The most famous market is located in Alkmaar, it operates according to the rules established in 1672, and is held every Friday from April to October.

Black and motley quality

The most famous Dutch cheeses are made from cow's milk. The Netherlands exports not only cheese but also cows. Every year about 40,000 black-and-white cows are sent abroad, including to Russia, where they were first brought in in 1693. Their milk production averages 8-9 thousand kilograms per year. Dutch black-and-white cows are known all over the world. The famous "Holstein women" - milk yield champions, also originate from them. Less known is the "Dutch strap" breed. These cows are valued not only for their dairy qualities, but also for their original appearance: they have a white stripe running across their black body like a belt.

Edam or gouda?

Edam cheese, named after the port town, is known abroad as the "calling card" of the Netherlands, since more than half of it is exported. This cheese has become the main component of Edam's prosperity since the Middle Ages. On April 16, 1526, Emperor Charles V of Habsburg granted the city the right to organize a cheese market weekly, and Prince William I of Orange made this right indefinite. So he thanked the inhabitants of Edam for the support they gave to the neighboring city of Alkmaar when it was besieged by Spanish troops. Today, the inhabitants of Alkmaar continue to hold a ceremony dedicated to Edam cheese in their market: porters bring yellow edam heads and spread them over the entire market square, which makes it golden.

Perfectly round edam heads, made for local consumption, covered with a yellow shell, for export in red. Real connoisseurs prefer both the especially aged (from four months to one and a half years) Edam cheese, which is covered with a black film.

Edam production accounts for 27% of the total cheese production in the Netherlands. According to this indicator, it is second only to Gouda, the cheese preferred by the Dutch themselves. The volume of its sales in the "orange country" (by the way, this is what the Netherlands is called, because orange is the color of the ruling Orange-Nassau dynasty) is about 50% of all cheeses. In addition to the usual gouda, the Dutch adore smoked, with an appetizing brown crust. It is especially good with beer. However, historically, Gouda, like other cheeses, began to be smoked not because of taste, but for the sake of increasing shelf life.

Both of the leaders in Dutch cheese making are made from cow's milk, are naturally aged cheeses, and have been made for at least seven centuries. Compared to them, the third popular Dutch cheese - maasdam - is just a baby: it was born in the 70s of the XX century. Dutch masters created it as a competitor to Swiss Emmental cheese. This cheese, also known as leerdam, is becoming a serious competitor to edam and gouda. He conquers the audience not only with his original taste, but also with giant holes.

Cheese statistics

Data for 2004, United States Department of Agriculture for the US and non European countries, and Eurostat for European countries

Leading cheese producers (tonnes per year)
Germany - 1929
France - 1827
Italy - 1102
Netherlands - 672
Poland - 535
Brazil - 470
Egypt - 450
Australia - 373
Argentina - 370

Leading cheese consumers (in kg per capita per year)
Greece - 27.3
France - 24.0
Italy - 22.9
Switzerland - 20.6
Netherlands - 19.9
Austria - 19.5
Sweden - 17.0

The Netherlands ranks fifth in terms of cheese imports to Russia, behind Germany, Ukraine, Belarus and Lithuania.

Cheese delights

Starting in the 16th century, the Netherlands began to turn into the largest trading power in Europe. The first joint stock company in the world was the Dutch East India Company, founded in 1602. Through it, merchants traded exotic goods from Japan, China and numerous Dutch colonies. The activities of the East India Company brought considerable profit to shareholders, but until 1644 it was paid in kind. This arrangement rendered an invaluable service to the Dutch cheese-making industry: after all, a significant part of these goods were spices. From the Moluccas to the Netherlands, traders brought nutmeg (for the theft of which was punishable by death), from Asia Minor - anise, from India - black pepper, from Indonesia - cloves. The Dutch were not afraid of experiments and generously poured seasonings into the baths where the cheese mass rested. Over time, the Netherlands lost their colonies, but the cheeses with spices remained. The most interesting thing is that with all the abundance of colonial spices, the Dutch love most of all cheese with caraway seeds, for which you do not need to go far away - cumin, or cumin, has been growing in Northern Europe since ancient times. Leyden cheese, which is made from skim milk, adding caraway seeds and, less often, chopped cloves to it, gained fame. Sometimes this type of cheese is called komijnekaas, that is, "caraway cheese".

Moldy cheeses are also the pride of Dutch cheese making. Although they are known in the world much less than the French Roquefort, this does not detract from their merits. Despite the same soft texture as Roquefort, the taste of Dutch blue cheeses is completely different. They can be eaten with the crust that other moldy ones usually throw away. One of the types of moldy cheese is called Blauw Klaver, that is, "blue crust". In addition to cheeses with blue mold, cheeses with red mold on the crust are also produced, which have an even more original, sharp taste, for example, Doruvael. Working with the red bacteria that produces this mold requires special sterility, which is why at the moment only one and only farm in the Netherlands has permission to make doruvael.

The birth of taste

The Dutch have no special national technologies for making cheese. Pasteurized milk is poured into a container called a cheese bath, and a clotting agent (most often rennet, which makes the milk thicker) and lactic acid bacteria, which convert lactose (milk sugar) into lactic (hydroxypropionic) acid, are added to it. The curd obtained in this way is the main component of the cheese. For hard cheeses, the resulting mass is crushed: the smaller the pieces are, the denser the future cheese will be. Sometimes hot water is poured into the cheese tub at this stage - it rinses out the curd particles, making them lighter and more uniform.

Then the mass is heated to 35-55 degrees. Usually, it is stirred so that the future cheese does not turn out grainy. Cheeses made with the bacteria Lactobacilli or Streptococci heat up even more because these bacteria tolerate high temperatures. If cheese is made with herbs, spices or seasonings, they are added at this stage.

Then comes the turn of forming: the curd is compacted, if necessary, cut into pieces of a suitable size and laid out in special forms. The excess liquid must now be removed from the curd, either by its own gravity or under pressure. The stronger the pressure, the harder and drier the finished product will be. In Holland, as in Russia, the resulting cheese unit is called a head, although the shape of the cheese can be not only spherical, but also oval or in the form of cubes, wheels, parallelepipeds, tetrahedrons.

Salt is added to almost all cheeses, and not only for taste, but also to increase shelf life. This happens at different stages, depending on the variety: sometimes salt is combined with milk at the very beginning, in a cheese bath; some cheeses are sprinkled with ready-made salt or soaked in brine for several days. Also, coloring pigments, such as annatto, from the tropical plant Bixa orellana L., are added to the curd mass for making cheese from winter milk. This natural color, like carotene, which cows get from summer grass, gives the cheese a pronounced yellow color.

Finally the ripening time comes. Simply put, the cheese must "rest", soak in a specially designed cool room. This process can take from several days to several years.

For all types of cheeses, there is a stamp with which each head is stamped. It contains the country of origin (Netherlands), the name of the cheese, the fat content in dry matter and the serial number. So, by any cheese head, you can always determine where, when and by whom it was made. This is the main guarantee of the quality of Dutch cheese.

To the East!

The first Russian cheese factory appeared in 1812 in Lotoshino, on the estate of Prince Ivan Sergeevich Meshchersky, located in the Tver region (this is reported by the directory of factories and factories of Russia for 1894). The number one master of cheese was Johann Müller, who was invited to work at the Meshchersky estate at the beginning of the 19th century. As a Swiss, he first began to cook Emmental type cheese, and after that he switched to the production of Dutch cheeses - saltier and spicy, the taste of which the metropolitan nobility appreciated long before the start of local production. They were delivered from the Netherlands, perfectly withstanding the long journey to St. Petersburg. Surprisingly, the aristocrats preferred one of the most spicy, not to say smelly, varieties of Dutch cheese: Limburger. It is mentioned by A.S. Pushkin in the poem "Eugene Onegin":

Before him is a bloody roast-beef,
And truffles, the luxury of a young age,
French food is the best color,
And Strasbourg is an imperishable pie
Between the cheese of Limburgish live
And golden pineapple.

The smell of Limburg cheese is similar to the smell of, sorry, dirty socks. This similarity was the basis for a scientific discovery that received an alternative Nobel Prize in 2006. Dutch biologists Bart Knols and Ruurd de Jong have shown convincingly that the female Anopheles gambiae mosquito is equally attracted to the "flavor" of human feet and Limburgian cheese. The answer lies in the fact that the bacteria Brevibacterium linens, which naturally live on our skin, are used to ferment Limburg cheese.

But still, the mass acquaintance with Dutch cheese falls on the first half of the XX century. Based on the production of popular Dutch cheeses, Russian cheese makers have created a unified technology and released a cheese with the general name "Dutch". After him appeared Kostroma, Yaroslavl, Poshekhonsky, Uglichsky, which also began to be included in this group of cheeses.

A piece of cheese for a whole lunch

The Dutch love not only the cheese itself, but also the dishes made from it. Therefore, it is this product that is chosen as the main ingredient for a hearty lunch or dinner.

For the first, we prepare cheese soup.
Products: 3 raw eggs, 1 hard-boiled egg, 4 tablespoons of cream, 100 grams of Edam cheese, a pinch of nutmeg, 750 grams chicken broth, greenery.
Preparation: raw eggs beat with cream, grated cheese and nutmeg. Boil the broth, remove from heat, add the whipped mass to it. Serve, garnished with boiled egg slices and herbs.

Serve cheese steak for the second.
Cut edam or gouda into portions about 1 centimeter thick, roll them in a mixture of eggs and flour and fry over high heat in oil, 2-3 minutes each side. Serve immediately with fried potatoes and vegetables.

On the third - a light and original dessert.
For each serving, you will need 50 grams of blue cheese, such as Delfts Blau, and one pear. Finely chop the cheese and pear, stir and season with whipped cream or yogurt.

Everything according to the rules

Although the people of the Netherlands prefer simplicity and artlessness in everything, Dutch cheeses are quite suitable for organizing a "cheese ceremony". However, this will require additional equipment. First of all - a cheese board of a round or rectangular shape. Marble is considered the best, but ordinary wooden is fine. You will also need special cheese knives. There should be at least three of them: one with a long thin blade, it is intended for hard cheeses. The second is for soft cheeses, with a fork at the end and holes on the blade (they are made so that the cheese does not stick to the knife). Finally, the third - with a wide blade, for semi-soft cheeses.

The cheese ceremony includes several varieties that showcase the richness of the Dutch cheese palette. Minimum set: edam, gouda, maasdam, 1-2 blue cheeses (for example, Blau Claver), 1-2 cheeses with spices (for example, Leiden), goat cheese (for example, chevrette).

Cheese must be served with bread (white, like a French baguette) and fruits - pears, apples, grapes. Some aesthetes prefer to eat cheese with honey. Chestnut is best for this. But the main partner of cheese is, of course, wine. Although Dutch wines exist, they are not very well known in our country (and in the world), so it is better to choose classic combinations. Dry white wines (for example, "Sauvignon") or light Portuguese rosés are recommended for goat cheese; Gouda goes well with Riesling, Edam with rich red wines such as Merlot and Cabernet. Dessert, sweet wines like Sauternes are suitable for cheeses with blue mold. In general, as the Dutch proverb says: "Whoever has cheese does not need dessert."

Nadezhda Moiseeva

The flavor of Dutch cheese depends a lot on the degree of aging. This, in turn, can make the food salty, sweet, sour or neutral. How useful is it? Are there any harmful qualities? And how many calories are in Dutch cheese? Read the answers to all these questions in the article.

General product characteristics

The cheese is made on the basis of cheese-like milk, bacteria and enzymes. The latter contribute to the folding of milk protein.

Dutch cheese contains a sufficient amount of extractive elements. They stimulate appetite, and also prepare the digestive tract for active work. Read more about the beneficial and harmful properties of this product below.

About calorie content

Cheese is considered to be quite nutritious. 100 g contains about 330 kcal. The same weight accounts for 24 g of protein, 23 g of fat and 4 g of carbohydrates.

Cheese, which is made according to the requirements of GOST, must have a firm and even crust without damage.

Why is Dutch hard cheese good for you?

First of all, it helps to accelerate the absorption of carbohydrates and normalizes blood sugar levels. Dutch cheese is highly nutritious. Thanks to this, it can be used to recover from mental and intense physical exertion.

Secondly, it contains calcium and phosphorus. They are good for hair, nails, bones as well as muscle tissue. Potassium in Dutch cheese has a positive effect on the state of blood vessels and heart. And thanks to such a mineral as sodium, the water balance in the body is maintained.

What is the harm of the product?

Dutch cheese, as you can see, has a lot of merits. But the negative side of this product should also be mentioned.

So, as mentioned, cheese is high in calories and fat. For this reason, it should not be consumed by those who have problems with the functioning of the gallbladder and liver. Also, people who are overweight need to give it up.

Eating Dutch cheese for stomach and intestinal ulcers is also not worth it. Some people have an allergic reaction to Dutch cheese. This is explained by individual intolerance to certain components, for example, milk protein. If this happens, an antihistamine should be taken.

How to choose the right cheese?

When buying a product, you should pay attention to the color of the head. Natural cheese is always yellowish or white. But at the same time, the color should be uniform. The bright yellow color of the product indicates the presence of a dye in it.

If there are cracks in the crust, then you should not purchase such a product. Because they can harbor mold bacteria.

Also, there should be no oily discharge on the surface and cut of the product. This suggests that the cheese was stored incorrectly.

About the chemical composition of the product

It should be noted that it contains a large amount of vitamins such as A, E, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, B5 and niacin. In addition, the composition of Dutch cheese also includes macronutrients: potassium, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and sodium. Also, this product is rich in trace elements: zinc, copper, manganese and iron.

If a person consumes about 200 g of cheese per day, he will receive all the necessary nutrients that are so necessary for his body.

But do not overdo it with the use of this product in food. Since the concentration of salt in cheese exceeds all permissible values.

About product varieties

In order to understand the fat content of Dutch cheese, you should refer to its variety. There are several types. This product belongs to the category of hard cheeses. And, according to her, it can be divided into fresh, sliced, soft, hard and semi-hard. Cheese of this type are made in an oval shape. Mass fraction of fat on dry matter is 45%.

One of the most common and best known types of Dutch cheese is Gouda. It is made on the basis of cow's milk. And its fat content is about 50%. This product has a mild creamy taste.

The next type, burenkass, is made from unpasteurized milk. As a rule, the head of this product is covered with an orange crust, and the flesh is flaxseed. This cheese has an interesting taste: it has an amazing nutty aftertaste. And, naturally, the older the product, the more exquisite it is. Unfortunately, most of this type of cheese remains in the Netherlands. Only a small part of the product is exported.

Leerdam is also a type of Dutch cheese produced in the Netherlands. In terms of its taste, it is very similar to Gouda. However, manufacturers claim that it also has a nutty flavor. This product is supplied with large heads, each of which weighs about 11 kg.

Edam is a semi-hard cheese. It is made in ball-shaped heads. Its price category is considered average. The smell of the product increases with maturation. It differs from other species in its sweetish and delicate taste with hints of walnut. Mature edamer has a dry and intense flavor. This product is made on the basis of pasteurized milk. The fat content of the cheese is about 47%.

Most likely, you have more than once met a product with large eyes on store shelves, which is called maasdam. It is famous for its delicate nutty flavor. This product is the most popular among other types of cheese. Eyeshadowing occurs during the manufacturing process. This is explained by the fermentation process and the effect of gas on the pulp. The diameter of these eyes is 3 cm. Due to fermentation, the cheese acquires a peculiar aroma. It should be noted that the ripening period for this product is the shortest. It is one month.

Another type of cheese that is very similar in taste to gouda is roomano. These two products differ from each other in manufacturing technology. This is how pasteurization is used for roomano. Its fat content is more than 49%, and in the Gouda this figure is much lower. This type of cheese also has a toffee aftertaste.